free crochet pattern

Free doll cardigan pattern

June 20, 2019July 1, 2019 Sonja

Maybe I should call it ‘Popke crochet cardigan pattern’. How cute is this?!

Most of you have already seen Poochey in his dapper outfit on my Instagram page and I got many requests for the little cardigan pattern. Because I wanted to design another little cardigan for the squirrel, I wanted to publish both when the squirrel was finished. And now is the time! Here are two free patterns for very trendy Popke cardigans. The cardigans are about the same size but the rabbit cardigan has different shaped sleeves, the squirrel cardigan doesn’t really have sleeves.

Instructions

I’ll keep this pattern very basic. The cardigans are approximately 7 cm / 3 inch wide and high, when made with worsted weight yarn and hook 3.5 mm/ E. I’ve used Istex Lett Lopi for the cardigans, the same yarn as the animals are made with.

Abbreviations: ch = chain, sc = single crochet, st = stitch, sl st = slip stitch, hdc = half double crochet stitch, BLO = work in back (inside) loops only, lst = loop stitch, s2tog = invisible decrease, pm = place marker.

The cardigans are made in rows. After you’ve made the starting chain, you do a first dc in the 4th ch from hook. You’ve actually made two dc’s because the top of the chain that forms when you work into the 4th stitch will be the 1st dc. After each turn, you ch 3 and dc in 5th ch from hook. Here you also make two dc’s in one and by skipping the 1st dc (that’s why you work into the 5th st) you keep the stitch count the same. It’s useful to keep marking the 1st stitches, because you might overlook them.

Rabbit cardigan

1. ch 26, in 4th ch from hook dc (pm in 1 st before this dc), dc in next 22 = 24, turn

2. ch 3, in BLO: in 5th ch from hook dc (pm in 1 st before this dc too), dc in next, 3 dc in next, dc in next 4, 3 dc in next, dc in next 6, 3 dc in next, dc in next 4, 3 dc in next, dc in next 3 = 32, turn

3. ch 3, in 5th ch from hook dc (make sure to mark the right stitch as 1st), dc in next 2, 3 dc in next (this is in the middle st of the 3 you did in the previous row), dc in next 6, 3 dc in next, dc in next 8, 3 dc in next, dc in next 6, 3 dc in next, dc in next 4 = 40, turn

4. ch 3, in 5th ch from hook dc, dc in next 3, dc in next (in the middle of 3), skip 8 st, dc in next (middle of 3), dc in next 10, dc in next (middle of 3), skip 8, dc in next (middle of 3), dc in next 5 = 24, turn

5. ch 3, in 4th ch from hook dc, dc in next 22, 2 dc in last = 26, turn

6.ch 1, in 2nd ch from hook sc, sc in next 5, hdc in next 2, dc in next 10, hdc in next 2, sc in next 5, sl st in last = 26, weave in yarn end.

Now sl st a neat seam all the way around the cardigan (not the collar) by starting at the top left corner. Make sure you have the same number of stitches on each front. The unworked loops from round 2 should be on the inside of the cardigan. You can add some buttons if you like, there is enough space between the stitches to form the buttonholes.

Squirrel cardigan

1. ch 26, in 4th ch from hook dc (pm in 1 st before this dc), dc in next 22 = 24, turn

2. ch 3, in 5th ch from hook dc, dc in next 2, skip next 3, ch 4, dc in next 10, skip next 3, ch 4, dc in next 4 = 26, turn

3. ch 1, in 2nd ch from hook sc (1st stitch), sc in next 7, dc in next 10, sc in next 8 = 26, turn

4. ch 1, in 2nd ch from hook sc, sc in next 4, hdc in next 3, dc in next 10, hdc in next 3, sc in next 5 = 26, turn

5. ch 1, in 2nd ch from hook 2 sc, sc in next 4, hdc in next 3, dc in next 10, hdc in next 3, sc in next 4, 2 sc in next = 28, turn

6. ch 1, in 2nd ch from hook sc, sc in next 4, hdc in next 4, dc in next 10, hdc in next 4, sc in next 4, sl st in last = 28, weave in yarn end.

Now sl st a neat seam like you did for the other cardigan. I’ve added small beads as buttons because there isn’t much space between the stitches to form buttonholes. But there are of course alternative ways to create ‘buttonholes’.

Note: this 1st version of the pattern isn’t edited professionally as, just by me, so if you notice a mistake, please let me know.

Patterns

Free crochet bumblebee pattern

May 6, 2019April 9, 2020 Sonja

I’m ever so excited to present to you this little gift pattern. Just look at these crochet bumblebee species!

Last week I had a Spring holiday and suddenly got the idea of making a free crochet bumblebee pattern. The first bumblebee turned out so lovely that I decided to make more kinds of bumblebees. And when they where finished, I wanted to create a classic-looking image with the bees on a white background and their species name written next to them. In short, I had a lot of fun with my sweet little pattern and hope you will too! Bumblebees and insects are so important but their numbers are declining dramatically. Make these bees to show the world we must not forget about them! 🐝

Crochet bumblebees

Before you start

This pattern is written in standard American crochet terms. It’s useful to read it before you start. If you use the recommended yarn, your bumblebees will be 3 inch / 5 cm long. Because the size of the bee is dependent on the yarn you use and how tight you crochet, it’s useful to experiment with the eye size, despite my recommendations. I would strongly recommend a fuzzy yarn for the bumblebees. The yarn I’ve used is Istex Lètt lopi, a 100% wool. Use a stitch marker to mark the beginning of a round, move it up each time you start a new round. The colour changes are written after the description of the round, so read the whole line before you start. Always change colour in the last loop of a stitch, so the loop on the hook you end with is the new colour. That means the next stitch is in the new colour, not the one you changed in. At Son’s Popkes is a tips & tricks category. Here you can find useful info regarding my patterns.

Materials

For these bumblebees you’ll need worsted weight yarn and an E US/3.5 mm crochet hook. You’ll also need some lace weight yarn (Lopi Einband) for the wings: beige heather (0886). You need four colours of worsted weight yarn (left-over bits are enough): sheep or mixed black (0052 or 0005), yellow (1703), orange (1704) and light grey (0054). For the eyes I’ve used 7 mm animal eyes. You will also need fibrefill to stuff the bees.

Accessories

Hook E US / 3.5 mm, scissors, embroidery needle, stitch markers or paper clips.

Abbreviations: ch = chain, sc = single crochet, st = stitch, sl st = slip stitch, hdc = half double crochet stitch, dc = double crochet stitch, s2tog = invisible decrease.

White-tailed bumblebee (bombus terrestris)

Body

Start in black, change colour when indicated. To get neater colour changes, you aren’t working in a spiral but closing each round with a sl st. At the end of each round, sl st in the first sc of the next round, then ch 1 and sc in that same stitch. This is the 1^st stitch of the next round. At the end of each round you will skip over the sl st and ch and crochet a sl st, ch, sc in the following stitch. Don’t cut the yarn between the colour changes but carry it along.

1. magic ring of 4 = 4

2. (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 6

Mark the stitches of round 3 in which you’ll make the 2nd and the 6th stitch with a coloured strand. (Insert the strand into the gap of the stitch you normally put your hook in.) When the strand is placed, just do the stitch like you always do. You’ve now marked where you later attach the eyes.

3. (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 8, change colour to yellow in last st, sl st in 1st

4. ch 1, sc in same, [2 sc in next, (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 3] in BLO = 12, change colour to black in last, sl st in 1st

5. ch 1, sc in same, [sc in next 11] in BLO = 12, sl st in 1st

Attach the eyes permanently in the marked spots. It helps turning the piece inside-out when you attach the caps. After I attached the eyes, I inserted a little bit of stuffing between them, as shown in the images below.

6. ch 1, sc in same, sc in next 11 = 12, change colour to yellow in last st, sl st in 1st

7. ch 1, sc in same, [sc in next 11] in BLO = 12, change colour to black in last and cut yellow, sl st in 1st

8. ch 1, sc in same, [sc in next 11] in BLO = 12, change colour to light grey in last and cut black, sl st in 1st

9. ch 1, sc in same, [sc in next 11] in BLO = 12, sl in 1st

10. ch 1, sc in same, s2tog, (sc in next, s2tog) x 3 = 8, sl st in 1st

Stuff the bumblebee.

11. ch 1, sc in same, sc in next, s2tog, sc in next 2, s2tog = 6, sl st in 1st

Add a little bit of stuffing if needed and then sew the hole closed by putting the needle from the inside out through all the outside loops of the 6 st, clockwise. If you do it correctly, you can now pull the end and it will close the gap. Make sure your bombus has a nice oval bottom.

Red-tailed bumblebee (Bombus lapidarius)

1-3. Follow the instructions for the white-tailed bee but skip the sl st and ch 1 and don’t change colour to yellow in round 3.

4. In BLO: (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 4 = 12

5. sc in each around = 12

Attach the eyes in the marked spots.

6-7. sc in each around = 12

8. sc in each around = 12, change colour to orange in last and cut black, sl st in 1st

9. ch 1, sc in same, sc in next 11 = 12, sl st in 1st

10-11. follow the instructions for the white-tailed bumblebee.

Tree bumblebee (Bombus hypnorum)

1-3. Follow the instructions from the white-tailed bumblebee, change colour to orange instead of yellow.

4. ch 1, sc in same, [2 sc in next, (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 3] in BLO = 12, sl st in 1st

5. ch 1, sc in same, sc in next 11 = 12, change colour to black in last st and cut orange, sl st in 1st

Attach the eyes in the marked spots.

6. ch 1, sc in same, [sc in next 11] in BLO = 12, sl st in 1st

7. ch 1, sc in same, sc in next 11 = 12, sl st in 1st

8. ch 1, sc in same, sc in next 11 = 12, change colour to light grey in last and cut black, sl st in 1st

9. ch 1, sc in same, [sc in next 11] = 12, sl st in 1st

10-11. follow the instructions for the white-tailed bumblebee.

Early bumblebee (Bombus pratorum)

To make this bee, follow the instructions for the white-tailed, but make the bottom in orange instead of light grey. That’s all.

Wings

Make two for each bumblebee, use the thinner yarn with the same hook. If you use Lopi yarn but don’t have the Einband weight, split a lopi strand in half. Make the starting chain as long as the end, so you can use both ends together to attach the wings.

1. ch of 6, in 3rd ch from hook dc, dc in same, hdc in next, sc in next, sl st in next and leave yarn ends for sewing.

Use both yarn ends to sew the wings to the body. Sew them on top of the third round behind the head, as shown in the images. The head ends at the first round you do in BLO.

Wow, how cute is this? Have fun with your bumblebee collection. You now have the ability to make even more kinds!

Patterns

Free mini antlers pattern

November 23, 2016November 23, 2016 Sonja

With this funny little pattern, you can now turn every Popke into a reindeer. It’s an easy and quick to make pattern, although the antlers are a bit tiny so enough light and some patience is very much needed.

Mini antlers pattern

You’ll need worsted weight yarn in brown and any other colour you like and hook E/ 3.5 mm. You will also need pipe cleaners to make the pieces bendable.

The antlers

(Brown, make two of each piece)

Part 1
1. magic ring of 4 = 4
2 – 6. sc in each around = 4, sl st and leave yarn end

Part 2
1. magic ring of 4 = 4
2 – 4. sc in each around = 4, sl st and leave yarn end

Part 3
1. magic ring of 4 = 4
2 – 3. sc in each around = 4, sl st and leave yarn end

Now you can put the pipe cleaners in the longest 4 pieces. Stretch the parts to get the right length and make sure the cleaners in the longest two (part 1’s) stick out just a little bit, so you can prick them into the headband. Now attach the parts 2 to the bottom parts of the parts 1 and the parts 3 to the top part of the parts 1, as shown in the picture. Sew in the end tails but skip the yarn end of the longest parts, so you can use them to sew the antlers to the headband.

Headband

(Any cheerful colour will do)

1. magic ring of 4 = 4
2 – 22. sc in each around = 4, sl st.

Now stretch this piece too and insert the pipe cleaner. Now you can sew the band closed by putting the needle from the inside out through all the outside loops of the 4 st, clockwise. If you do it correctly, you can pull the yarn end and it will close the gap

All you have to do now is attach the antlers to the headband, about two rounds apart. There, now you can give all your Popkes a reindeer metamorphose!

Patterns

Free mole accessory pattern: Moser’s miners safety helmet

October 25, 2016 Sonja

Just for the fun of it I made another free accessory pattern, a miners safety helmet for Moser the crochet mole. I really think these simple accessories make the animals look even more whimsical than they did. And with the holiday season coming, I already have a fun accessory in mind that will fit every animal, so keep an eye on the blog for these little free patterns.

Look at Moser, isn’t he an adorable little miner! Below the pictures you can find the free pattern for the miners safety helmet and links to buy the crochet mole pattern you can find here.

Miners safety helmet pattern

Helmet (yellow)

magic ring of 6 = 6
2 sc in each around = 12
(sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 6 = 18
(sc in next 3, 2 sc in next, sc in next 4, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 22
sc in each around = 22

Short rows to make the face opening

sc in next 8, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 17 = 17, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 17 = 17, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 15, s2tog = 16, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 14, s2tog = 15, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook s2tog, sc in next 2, s2tog, sc in next 3, s2tog, sc in next 2, *s2tog (*finish this last st as a sl st), weave in yarn end.

Helmet flap (yellow)

To make a little flap to protect Moser’s eyes better, you crochet a new row into the outside loops of the face opening edge. You are going to crochet 9 new stitches. If you look closely to the face opening of the helmet when it is facing you, you see 7 normal stitches around the opening (the part above the eyes).

Row 1

Work front loops only. To create the flap, you insert your hook from the outside in, into the 3rd st before the normal stitches and pull a loop. Now make an sc in the next 2 st, sc in next 7 normal stitches, sc in the next st of the side of the face opening. You should now see a new row of 9 st in the middle of the face opening. If not, start this row one stitch later. It is a bit hard to explain in which stitch to start, because the stitches at the side edges of the face opening look different and are harder to identify. As long as your flap is in the middle of the helmet, nicely placed above Moser’s eyes, everything is ok.

Row 2 (this row is worked in both loops like you normally do.)

ch 1, turn. In 2nd ch from hook s2tog, hdc in next, dc in next 3, hdc in next, *s2tog (*finish this last st as a sl st), weave in yarn end.

Lamp (dark brown and light grey)

Ouside in dark brown

Magic ring of 4 = 4
2 sc in each around = 8
sc in each around = 8, sl st and leave yarn end for sewing

Light in light grey

Magic ring of 4 = 4
(sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 6, sl st and leave yarn and for sewing

Strap

Make a ch of 25 with long ends for sewing at both sides.

Now assemble the lamp by placing the light into the lamp bulging out, but as deep into it as possible. Attach it with one stitch trough the back of the outside with the tail of the light. Use the tail of the lamp to secure the light better and weave in the end. Attach the strap to the middle of the lamp using both tails. You don’t join the strap but attach both sides next to the magic ring of the lamp. Like that the lamp isn’t placed completely on top of the chain which would make it stick out more, but runs over into it at both sides, giving a slightly flatter appearance.

Well look at that. You have made Moser a very sturdy helmet!

Patterns

Free crochet duckling accessory

October 12, 2016October 12, 2016 Sonja

In my quest to make enchanting Instagram portraits of my crochet animals, I have to come up with interesting accessories. Today Jonesy the duckling was my subject because I had this rather cool idea to make him look very special, and to publish a little free pattern for all of you.

Look at this very sturdy aviator duckling! Maybe Jonesy needed this helmet all along. The free aviator helmet and goggles pattern you can find below the pictures and links to buy the crochet duckling pattern you can find here.

Aviator helmet and goggles pattern

You need worsted weight yarn and hook E/ 3.5 mm (or the same yarn and hook you used when you made the duckling.) I’ve used Istex Lett lopi, colours brown (0053), dark brown (0052) and light grey (0054). You also need an embroidery needle to attach the strap to the goggles.

Aviator helmet (brown)

magic ring of 6 = 6
2 sc in each around = 12
(sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 6 = 18
(sc in next 3, 2 sc in next, sc in next 4, 2 sc in next) x 2 = 22
sc in each around = 22

Short rows to make the face opening

sc in next 8, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 17, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 17, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 17, ch 1, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 17, ch 4, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 3, (s2tog, sc x 3) x 3, s2tog, ch 4, turn
in 2nd ch from hook sc in next 3, sl st in next (side of helmet opening) and weave in end

Goggles (light grey and dark brown)

Glass 1, start in light grey and change colour to dark brown in the last stitch of round 2

magic ring of 4
2 sc in each around = 8 (change colour to dark brown in last stitch)
sc in each around = 8
sl st and weave in end

Glass 2, start in light grey and change colour to dark brown in the last stitch of round 2

magic ring of 4
2 sc in each around = 8 (change colour to black in last stitch)
sc in each around = 8
sl st, ch 1
join glass two to glass one with a normal sc in glass one, sl st in next and weave in end

Strap (dark brown)

Make a chain of 20 with long ends at both sides for sewing it to the glasses.

Happy crocheting!

Patterns

Free Easter crochet pattern

March 12, 2014February 11, 2016 Sonja

A few times a year I try to design fun and free crochet patterns, as a ‘thank you’, to all of you who have bought my crochet patterns and have supported me. This time I made little crochet Easter eggs and a basket that fits precisely two of the eggs.

With this free crochet pattern for little Easter eggs and a basket, you can create fun Easter ornaments. I made the size of the eggs and basket so it combines well with my crochet animal patterns.

Of course especially Finse will make a lovely, quizzical crochet Easter bunny.

Finse finds himself not particularly a crochet Easter bunny, but more a normal rabbit, as you can tell by his expression.

The eggs and basket pattern

For this pattern you’ll need worsted weight yarn and hook US E/3,5 mm. to get an approximately 2,7 inch /7 cm wide basket and 1,77 /4,5 cm high eggs. I used a bunch of colours of Lètt Lopi, a 100% wool. To stuff the eggs you will need fiberfill and a two beads or buttons are optional. I’ve used beads to accentuate where the handle of the basket is fixed.

You can use a paper clip as stitch marker to mark the beginning of each round. Move it up each time you start a new round. The exact colours I have used for this little pattern you can find below it and, if you’ve become fond of Finse and want to complete the eggs and basket with a suitable bunny, you can find the pattern in my shop or my shop at Ravelry.

Abbreviations: ch = chain, sc = single crochet, sl st = stip stitch, dc = double crochet stitch, hdc = half double crochet stitch, s2tog = decrease.

The basket

Work around the chain.

1. ch of 7, in 2nd ch from hook 2 sc, sc in next 4, 2 sc in last, turn/go to bottom loops, 2 sc in bottom loop of that last st, sc in next 4, 2 sc in last = 16

2. 2 sc in next, sc in next 6, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 6, 2 sc in next = 20

3. 2 sc in next, sc in next 8, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 8, 2 sc in next = 24

4. 2 sc in next, sc in next 10, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 10, 2 sc in next = 28, close with sl st.

5. ch 2 and go back (you go back so the stitches will be stacked different, which will form a nice seem for the side of the basket. You only do it this one time) dc in next 28 = 28, sl st

6. ch 2, dc in nect 28 = 28, sl st

7. ch 1, sc in next 28 = 28, sl st and weave in end.

The strap.

Leave a long tail when you make the chain, for sewing.

1. ch of 20, in 2nd ch from hook hdc, hdc in next 17, sl st and leave tail.

(You can of course make the strap as long as you like, or two so you can make a backpack for a doll. Do whatever you like!)

Sew the strap to the basket and add a button or bead if you like.

The eggs. In multiple colours. If you make striped eggs, change colour in the last stitch of a round. Change colour in the last loop of a stitch, so the loop on the hook you end with, will be in the new colour.

1. magic ring of 5 = 5

2. 2 sc in each around = 10

3. (2 sc in next, sc in next) x 5 = 15

4 – 6. sc in each around = 15

7. (sc in next 3, s2tog) x 3 = 12

8. sc in each st around = 12

9. (sc in next 4, s2tog) x 2 = 10, now stuff the egg firmly.

10. sc in each st around = 10

11. s2tog x 5 = 5. Sew the hole closed by putting the needle from the inside out, trough all the outside loops of the 5 st, clockwise. If you do it correctly, you can now pull the tail and it will close the gap. Weave in the end.

Lopi colour numbers. Brown: 0053, orange: 1410, yellow: 1411, pink: 1412, apple green: 1406, grey green: 9422 and mustard: 9264.

Have a lovely spring and Easter festive.

Patterns

A free Halloween pattern, Mr. Creeper the spider.

October 18, 2013April 9, 2020 Sonja

Halloween is something that isn’t celebrated in the Netherlands, but I would love it. It looks and sounds like an exciting time with fun ‘rituals’ and attributes.

As a thanks to all of you who bought my patterns and because it’s just fun, I designed a cuddly Halloween spider. A fearsome fuzzy crochet spider called Mr. Creeper.

A warning for scared mums….here he is!

And now, the pattern to make Mr. Creeper.

For this pattern you’ll need worsted weight yarn and hook US E/3,5 mm. to get an approximately 6 inch / 15 cm tall spider, measured from front to back paw. I used the darkest brown colour of Lètt Lopi, a 100% wool. You will also need fiberfill, animal eyes, I used 7 mm eyes. Safety eyes with big backs won’t fit in the head so make sure you are going to use eyes that do fit. You also need pipe cleaners for the legs, so you can bend them into shape.

Body

1. magic ring of 6

2. 2 sc in each around = 12

3. (sc in next, 2 sc in next) x 6 = 18

4. (sc in next 2, 2 sc in next) x 6 = 24

5. 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 10, 2 sc in next 2, sc in next 10 = 28

6-7. sc in each around = 28

8. s2tog, sc in next 10, s2tog x 2, sc in next 10, s2tog = 24

9. (sc in next 2, s2tog) x 6 = 18

10. (sc in next, s2tog) x 6 = 12

11. s2tog x 6 = 6

Now close the gap by putting the needle from the inside out, trough all the outside loops of the 6 st, clockwise. If you do it correctly, you can now pull the tail and it will close the gab. Sew in the end.

Head

1. magic ring of 5

2. 2 sc in each around = 10

3-4. sc in each around = 10

Leave tail for sewing.

Legs (make 8)

1. magic ring of 4

2-11. sc in each around = 4

Leave tails for sewing. You can now insert the pipe cleaners. Stretch the paws so they get the length you want them to have and leave a bit of pipe cleaner sticking out, which you can later push into the body.

Jaws

ch of 2, in 2nd ch from hook sl st. (leave both tails long enough for sewing)

Assembling the spider.

Finish the spiders face by attaching the eyes and sew on the jaws. I sewed Mr. Creepers jaws tight by sewing both ends to the head. Now you can attach the head to the body. After this I attached the paws neatly opposite to each other, by pushing in the ends of the pipe cleaners. If they are in the right spots, sew them tight.

Ah, now he’s finished! Here’s another image to help you get everything right.